Siem Reap Day 5 (23 Oct 10) – Lazing Around Town

January 5, 2014August 23, 2020 / kktong76 / Leave a comment

Wandering around Siem Reap

This would be the last day of my 5-day temple ruin trip to Cambodia. Originally wanted to sleep in, not too sure why I woke up at 8 am local time. Damn, I was hoping I can bunk in till 11 am or something. After washing up, I finished up my blog entries from last night (worked till around 2 am local time). Well did not take me long to complete yesterday’s entry, soon it is time for breakfast. The warmth of the staff in the hotel never failed to put a smile on my face. The lady at the reception greeted me and was asking how was I. Well you don’t even get this level of personal service in 5-star hotels these days. As I had finished up my breakfast, I checked with the lady at the reception about this hot air balloon ride that would take me up to the sky to have a last look at Ang Kor Wat from the sky, after all, I am not too sure when will I ever visit this part of the earth again. On the way to the balloon ride area, as we were passing by the ticketing area for Ang Kor archeology site, the staff at the site told my tuk-tuk driver that the balloon was not flying today due to strong winds.

So I got the tuk-tuk driver to head back to town, this begins the (boring) day of wandering around the town like a zombie. As I had been to the town for the past 4 days, walking around especially under the hot sun was torture. The weather was so hot here that I finally gave in and seek refuge in an air-con restaurant. Initially, I was here only for a drink and to chill out from the hot sun. The staff was rather irritating and kept asking what food I wanna order. Well since it is time for lunch, I ordered this Siem Reap soup. The soup was so-so, not spicy but a bit on the sweet side. I guess most of the Khmer food is sweet, and this soup is rather acceptable to me. After eating, I walked around the old market area twice to kill time. As I was walking, the usual “Sir you want tuk-tuk”, “Sir you want to buy a T-shirt”, “Sir you want to buy something from me?” chants became audible. I must admit after hearing that for the past 4 days, it is rather irritating. How I wish time would fly I could quickly get to the airport. After wandering around the area for a few more rounds, it is time to head back to the hotel for a good shower before heading for the airport. The journey to the airport on tuk-tuk was enjoyable, despite the crowd at the check-in counter, I saw this business class cum internet check-in counter. The queue was way shorter. Did not take long for me to check-in and sit down to write up my blog.

Walking around Siem Reap Town

Shopping at a local market

A market in Siem Reap Town

Walking around Siem Reap Town

Lunch Time

Walking around Siem Reap Town

On my way to Siem Reap Airport

Siem Reap Airport

At the immigration area of the airport

The bird that is going to fly me home

Boarding time

The bird that is going to fly me home

Boarding the aircraft

The bird that is going to fly me home

Taking off

Afterthought

A reflection of the past few days. My first impression of Cambodia was that it is a country strike with poverty. The kids here did not have many choices of entertainment other than fishing at any water pond they can see. The very same water pond is also their swimming pool where they take a swim with their friends to past time. These kids do not have sophisticated gaming machines like PS 3, X-box 360, and yet they still enjoy what they have. As my guide has told me there is no public bus service in Siem Reap. To get to school these kids would either have to cycle or walk there. As a result of the lack of a chance to be a couch potato and exercising daily, I didn’t see any fat kids around. As I was telling my guide, the kids here are allowed to be kids and enjoy their carefree childhood.

Touring around the temple with a guide certainly is a better idea. With a guide, the guide was able to relate the importance of the temples, the significance of the carvings and where to look out for these carvings that will be commonly missed. I drew my experience from my trip to Ayutthaya the last December, where I went around without a guide. Without a guide, it is synonymous with walking around blindly, as I do not know what was I suppose to look for, what is the significance of these temples. After a while, all the ruins just look the same to me. This time around with a guide, I was able to know more about the ruins, the lore behind it, as well as the story behind the carvings. It has made me realise that touring around the temple ruins is not just to see the temple itself. It is also to know how the temples interacted with the people, the community around it. Many people visit Siem Reap just to visit Ang Kor Wat, no doubt it is a must-visit for people, it is not THE only time that one should visit. Other then Ang Kor Wat, the other temples that I like are Ta Prohm, Ta Som and Bang Melea due to the state they are in at the moment. Especially Bang Melea, the unknown purpose and the unknown builder of this temple further adds a mystic flavour to it. This trip to Siem Reap has educated me a lot on the history of Khmer people and opened my eyes to see how fortunate we are to be born in Singapore. My next destination will be Iran (hopefully I can make the trip there), where I hope to see more of the ancient historical site.

Siem Reap Day 4 (22 Oct 10) – From the Jungle to the Oldest: Bang Malea to Roluos Group Temples

January 5, 2014August 23, 2020 / kktong76 / Leave a comment

Bang Melea – The Jungle Temple

My day started with a long drive towards my first destination and the 2nd highlight of the trip. A trip to Bang Melea is considered a must for the locals other than Ang Kor Wat. Bang Melea is located some 70km from Siem Reap. When we first reach the grounds, there are lotus ponds on either side of the bridge leading into the temple grounds. As we passed the bridge, a lion which was originally facing outwards (and now facing the temple) caught my eye. My guide has explained that was not the original facing of the lions. All the lions in the temple grounds always face away from the temple. Beyond the lion was where the original front gate was located, despite its non-existence, the remains of the gate can still be seen on the sides. As we walked further in, what greeted me was a pile of ruins! My guide explained that the ruins that were before us were the original entrance into the temple. He further explained that the temple was in such a state was mainly attributed to the vegetation around. It was not destroyed by mankind, but by mother earth herself! The temple was entirely built with sandstone which source was a nearby sandstone quarry, however, who built it remains a mystery. When the temple was exactly built was unknown, there seemed to be no records for this temple. What could be told of this temple is the period it was built. As if the current state of the temple is not mysterious enough, the unknown origins add a certain mysticism to this temple.

We started the temple visit by walking the parameters of the temple. I could see how majestic the temple was in its hay days. This temple is often called Jungle temple by people who certainly deserve this name. If people had not discovered this temple, the extend of natural destruction would be more severe. We walked around the back of the temple and started to proceed into the temple grounds. What I see around this temple is numerous ruins caused by the growth of trees. As we walked on the wooden walkways within the temple site, the extend of destruction appears much greater then it seems from outside. Once inside the grounds, my guide pointed out the building in the centre with a tree on top was the middle of the temple. We walked through this dark tunnel to the other side of the wooden walkway. Soon a huge tree with its root extended onto the ground from the roof of a corridor became visible to our sight (the wall is about 10m high from the ground).

We walked around and then proceeded as the wooden walkway would lead us, and we were led to the top of one of the walls (yes this part is about 10 m from the ground), from this side I could see the extent of the damage around this part of the temple. Collapsing corridors, walkways, doors are a common sight in this temple. Walking through this temple involves clambering through small spaces and along rooftops. You gotta come here and experience it yourself to understand the state of ruin, the exotics and the extend of rage mother nature cast upon this mysterious temple. Within the temple grounds, I saw local children running around, climbing from wall to wall as if this is their playground. I also saw some of these kids showing a couple of Asian tourists around the temple site, they know where to go and what to see here.

On our way to Bang Melea

Walking towards Bang Melea

At the entrance of Bang Melea

This is the original entrance to Bang Melea, however, it is in such ruins that restoration is not possible

The original entrance to Bang Melea

Ruins of Bang Melea

Forces of nature have taken over Bang Melea

Ruins of Bang Melea

This temple is destroyed by forces of nature

Ruins of Bang Melea

Some carvings are still apparent around the temple ruins

Ruins of Bang Melea

Original carvings on the temple complex

Ruins of Bang Melea

This root is approximately 10m tall

Ruins of Bang Melea

Trees growing on top of the temple complex is a common sight here

Ruins of Bang Melea

Some of the carvings on Bang Melea

Ruins of Bang Melea

Entrance to the interior of the temple

Some of the original carvings

Carvings on Bang Melea

Ruins of Bang Melea

Carvings on Bang Melea

Leaving Bang Melea (the long drive is worth it!), we headed to this restaurant for lunch. The uniqueness of this restaurant was the place it is built on, the dining area of the restaurant is built on part of the river. Whenever someone walks around in the dining area, the whole area will sway slightly. What an experience! I ordered myself the famous local dish Amok fish in a young coconut, which is fish steamed with local spices to produce a curry-like state. Not too bad.

Bicycle is a common transport in Siem Reap

Driving towards the restaurant for lunch

A Local town in Siem Reap

This is where I had my lunch

Khmer food for lunch

Lolei

Our next destination was the Roluos Group. This is a group of 3 temples named as it was near to the Roluos village and was part of the city of Hariharalaya, the first Khmer capital. The structures of these temples were later used as a template by later kings in their construction of the temples. This is where one would find the oldest temple in Khmer history. The first of these 3 temples that we visited was Lolei. This late 9th-century temple was originally built on an island in the middle of a baray. The then baray had dried up in the present day. This small temple has 4 buildings, which the king had built a tower each for his grandfather, grandmother, father, and mother. The front two towers are for the males while the two towers at the back are for the females. Despite its age, the carving of the Hindu god Indra riding on his 3 headed elephant mount can still be seen on the lintels. The temple now shares a compound with a modern monastery, having a large building for prayers and living quarters for the monks. At this time of my visit, the young monks are playing soccer with some local kids.

Restoration works being done to Lolei

Lolei up close

Lolei

Carvings on Lolei

Oldest Khmer Temple – Preah Ko

The next temple that we visited was not far from Lolei and is THE oldest temple in Khmer history. Built-in 879, this temple of sacred bulls has 6 main towers. However the locals considered this temple to have only 5 towers as 2 of them were constructed very close to each other, often regarded as 1 by the locals. Preah Ko is got its name due to the presence of 3 bulls facing the first 3 towers in the temple. This temple is dedicated to Shiva and the bulls represent the mount of Shiva. Throughout the temple, I can see carvings of the immortal demon on the walls. The carvings of Shiva and Garuda was also visible on some of the lintels. However, it seemed that this part of this temple has been restored using cement, especially the lintel that depicts a demon which looks like swallowing an elephant, with some dancers beneath it. This temple must have been grand at the time it was built, but compared to the others that I have visited so far, this is considered an average-sized temple (most of the sizes of the temples were dwarfed by the sheer size of Ang Kor Wat).

Ruins of Preah Ko

Carvings on Preah Ko

Ruins of Preah Ko

There are some restoration works being done on Preah Ko

Ruins of Preah Ko

One of the bull statues in Preah Ko

Ruins of Preah Ko

Bakong

The last temple for this trip was Bakong. This temple was built 2 years later then Preah Ko and this temple was magnificent given its days. As we walked into the temple, 2 statues of Nagas can be seen greeting visitors. Surrounding this temple is a moat, very similar to those I have seen in Ang Kor Wat. As we pass the moat, a 5-tiered pyramid temple caught our sight. This temple was built by the king before he passed his throne to his son. As my guide explained, in ancient days, kings ruled their country from the mountains, signifying that they are above the rest. As this king was about to retire, he wanted to me “down to earth”, hence he built this temple. Bakong has a main tower high in the centre with 8 other smaller towers built around it on the ground level. Throughout the 5 levels of the pyramid temple, I can see 4 elephant statues on each level. Though there is some damage to the lintel on some of the ground level towers, I can still see the carvings on one of these towers showing a demon head above some nagas. As I scaled the pyramid, on the topmost level is the main temple building. The age of the building is seen here as the carvings on the lintel was not very visible.

On the backside of the temple, I can see the carving on the lintel depicting apsaras dancing, however, the carving on top of these apsaras is not visible. Walking around to the front of this tower, the carvings on the lintel is less visible. The carving on the top seems to depict a god which I thought could be Shiva (as this temple was dedicated to Shiva). What was carved beneath it has given way to elements throughout the time? Nothing much can be made out of these carvings. I spent a few moments enjoying the scenario at the topmost level of this temple and met a couple from Shanghai. We had a short chat about our trip in Cambodia so far. As I was resting I saw 2 local kids who wanted me to take pictures of them. They are cheerful and carefree, using the temple as their playground. Soon I decided it is time for me to head back to town and do some shopping.

Entrance of Bakong

The Bakong temple

Ruins of Bakong

At the top of Bakong

View from the top of Bakong

These lovely kids wanted me to take a picture of them

Ruins of Bakong

Siem Reap Day 3 (21 Oct 10) – Temples Hidden in the Jungle : Kbal Spean, Banteay Srei, Pre Rup, Ta Som, Neak Pean, Preah Khan

January 5, 2014August 25, 2020 / kktong76 / Leave a comment

The Ruins in the River – Kbal Spean

The day started with a track at Kbal Spean, some 1hr drive away from Siem Reap. As we were driving to Kbal Spean, we passed by some local countryside area. My guide pointed out to me that the scarecrow looking figure we saw in front of the houses is used to scare away evil spirits! The Kbal Spean is a holy ground that people worshipped for more than a millennium! This track does not lead to a temple, but carvings into the riverbed rocks. These carvings are made into the upper stream of Siem Reap River, which flowed into Ang Kor Wat. The walk to the (Siem Reap) river was by no means an easy task, there are certain parts where one has to climb onto steep slopes with rocks of various sizes scattered all over the trail. The track one-way is around 1.5km, despite certain parts are tougher to climb, it did not take us long to reach the carvings. Upon reaching, I could see carvings on the riverbed rocks. The one that impresses me the most is the one that depicts the god Vishnu lying on a serpent. The carvings were made taking into consideration the way the water flows to create the visual effect of the serpent that Vishnu sleeps on was floating on the water. This is an impressive piece of art and was created more than 1000 years ago. This part of the river is more famously known as the River of thousand lingas, as countless lingas were carved into the riverbed blessings people using the water at the lower part of the stream. There is also a carving of the god Brahma sitting on a lotus as well as several carvings that depict part of the religious scenes. As we tracked further down we arrived into a waterfall, what greeted us was a group of 4 Caucasians in their swimming suits, enjoying the water there. Wow, they sure know how to enjoy life, having driven for about 1 hr, and tracked 1.5 km just to do this. My guide told me that in hotter parts of the year, only there is only 1 waterfall instead of the 3 we saw today. Compared to the waterfall I was looking for in Phuket earlier this year, this one is far more decent. This waterfall pool marks the end of the tour in Kbal Spean, soon we headed downhill and proceeded towards Banteay Srei.

On my way to Kbal Spean

We had to do a 15 min trek through the forest to get to Kbal Spean

Trekking to Kbal Spean

Arrival at Kbal Spean

These Buddhist carvings survived the centuries

Carvings that survived the centuries

I like how precious these carvings are, giving the illusion that the Buddha is floating across the river

More carvings by the river

This Buddha carving is done on a rock by the river

Carvings by the river

Carving by the river

Spotted some tourists taking a dip at the river

Waterfall at Kbal Spean

More carvings by the river

The Small Temple Ruin – Banteay Srei

The drive to Banteay Srei was not a far one, as Kbal Spean and Banteay Srei are very close to each other. This temple is a rather small one in size, despite its size it is one of the most beautiful ones. As my guide explained, this temple was not built by a king, but the king’s counsellors, and was dedicated to the women. As we walked into the temple, the first lintel has carvings that shown a god sitting on his 3 headed elephant on top of the immortal demon head. The carvings are exquisite and well preserved despite being created in around 900 AD. As we were walking along the causeway towards the temple, 2 rows of statues were visible which were for decoration. As we approached the 2nd gate into the temple, my guide pointed out the carving on the beam, which looked like a demon devouring a god. My guide explained that it was Vishnu in his lion reincarnation clawing the chest of the king of demons. The liveliness of the carvings are very much visible and well preserved all these years. As we entered the 2nd gate, we saw the main temple itself. It is a 3 building temple, constructed very close to each other. On top of one of the building is a carving showing Garuda at the bottom subduing the serpents, on top was a scene showing the fight between the 2 monkey brothers over the throne of the king of monkeys. There are several carvings of apsaras on the outer pillars of the 3 shrines. What amazes me about this temple is despite its small size, the temple has everything! 3 shrines to worship 3 gods, 3 libraries, and tons of carvings. Despite its age, the carvings are very well preserved, most of them still display its glory at the time it was built! It did not take us long to complete the tour of this temple. Soon it was time for lunch.

Carvings on Banteay Srei

Ruins of Banteay Srei

The carving on this temple is rather intricate

Carvings on Banteay Srei

Ruins of Banteay Srei

Carvings on Banteay Srei

Close up of the carvings

Ruins of Banteay Srei

Banteay Srei from the outside

Banteay Srei

Carvings on Banteay Srei

Banteay Srei

Intricate carvings

Ruins of Banteay Srei

Banteay Srei

Carvings on Banteay Srei

Outside the temple

Great picture point of the temple

The Temple Built for Rituals – Pre Rup

After having lunch, we headed to our next destination, Pre Rup. This temple was built in the middle of the 10th Century and was used for cremation rites. There was a platform as I walked into the temple and my guide explained that it was used to support coffins for cremation. After the body was burnt, it was transferred to a small chapel to the right of it for cleansing. Sounds like it was built for assisting the dead into the nether worlds. According to history, this temple was once a state temple. This temple was once the centre of a city. Climbing up the stairs of this pyramid temple was by no means easy. The steps are tall and narrow, making it a challenge for people, especially people with MacDonald-sized feet. As I reached the top (the temple is about 12m from the ground), the view around this temple is amazing. I can see rice fields and afar, a sister temple to Pre Rup. On the main building, I can see the god Indra sitting on a single-headed elephant on the lintel. Despite the age of this temple, this carving is still very well preserved. Now it is time for me to descend and get to my next destination, the width of the steps seemed challenging for me to get down. Using what my guide had taught me, getting down is not as hard as it seems. The sheer size and height of the temple struck me of the significance of this temple in its hay days.

Khmer food for lunch

Ruins of Pre Rup

This altar is for burial purposes

Ruins of Pre Rup

Lion Statue at Pre Rup

Ruins of Pre Rup

View from the top of Pre Rup

Ruins of Pre Rup

View from the top of Pre Rup

Ruins of Pre Rup

The Twin of Pre Rup – East Mebon

Not far from Pre Rup (about 5 mins drive), we reached East Mebon. A temple that my guide described as the twin of Pre Rup. Twin it might be, but this temple was not as grand as Pre Rup and is much shorter. East Mebon has only 2 levels. The difference as my guide has pointed out in terms of structure is the presence of elephant statues in East Mebon. This temple used to be on an island in a baray, to access it people used to have to travel via boat. This is to guarantee a constant water supply by the king then into his city. This reservoir has now dried up and the landscape is different from yesteryears. This temple has a 5 building design at its centre, similar to its twin Pre Rup but less grand due to its height.

Ruins of Eat Mebon

Ruins of East Mebon

Ruins of Eat Mebon

Ta Som – Image of Ta Prohm

The next temple that we visited was a rather small one – Ta Som. This temple, similar to Ta Prohm, has 2 4-face Buddhas on each of its entrances. This temple is built around the 13th century has several apsaras carved into its pillars. My guide had explained to me that this is probably one of the hated temples by the Hindus as it has carvings that depict Lord Vishnu and Shiva as a consort of Buddha. It is kinda an insult to their beliefs. The temple just looked ruined as you walked within it. My guide brought me to the other entrance of the temple. From the direction we came from, it looks just like a normal tower. However, once you cross to the other side of the temple, WOW you can see tree roots growing around the entrance opening decorating the entrance. This is some temple entrance you would see on tomb raider, very similar to Ta Prohm. I am just amazed by how mother earth chose to decorate this abandoned temple.

Entrance to Ta Som

Carvings on Ta Som that survived the centuries

Ruins of Ta Som

A small temple

Ruins of Ta Som

Looks like these carvings have been restored recently

Carvings on Ta Som

Ruins of Ta Som

View of the 4 faced Buddha structure from behind

Ruins of Ta Som

Neak Pean – The Water Temple

Walking around Ta Som did not take much time, due to its compactness. We soon headed for the next temple – Neak Pean. Neak Pean is not your usual temple as one would see (certainly not the ones I have seen so far). Before even getting to the temple, the walkway leading to it was rather unique. I had to walk through some water pool, which looks like a mangrove swamp. As I walked along the road leading to it, I can see some locals building wooden walkways for visitors. At one place, near to the temple, I can see tons of tadpoles which seem like they are in clans or families gently swimming against the current. Once I reached the entrance, of this temple, I did not even realise it. It is not like the other temples which have an entrance gate, this temple is rather open. The main temple building has 2 nagas statues surrounding it, facing a horse statue with people assisting the horse. It seemed that the centre building of this temple is not accessible unless you wanna get wet as it is built into a squarish pond. Surrounding the pond is 4 other ponds, with 4 statues on each chapel representing each element on each side. We did not walk around to inspect each of the chapels as there were a bunch of Italian tourists around (would be too hard to get around it). After resting for about 5 mins, we made our way back to the entrance through the “water pathway” and headed for our next destination.

Walking towards Neak Pean

Schools of Tadpoles

Tadpoles up close

Walking towards Neak Pean

Neak Pean

The Charming Preah Khan

This would be our last temple for the day – Preah Khan. The first impression it gave me was the entrance of this temple looked a lot like that of Angkor Thom. It had 2 rows of gods and demons on each side, leading to a 3-doored gate, similar to that in Ang Kor Wat. On the boundary walls, I can see a statue of Garuda being embedded onto the left side of the wall and a statue of a lion on the right side of the wall. My guide had told me that this was once a palace of one of the kings, which was then converted into a temple and presented to his father as a gift. What we saw was just a small fraction of it, I can see after passing through the gate, a huge mass of land now consumed by forests. We walked further into the temple site, what welcomed us was an elaborated entrance with statues of Nagas and lions as well as the remaining 1 of 2 guardians of the temple. Though some of the statues are in a ruined condition, the entrance into the temple remains well preserved. As we walked through the gates into the temple itself, the carvings on the lintel, depicting a hermit praying with 2 followers sitting on the immortal demon head.

Walking further into the very centre of the temple, a stupa can be seen. I was told that this stupa was only added around the 16th century. The original figure at this location was a statue of the King’s father. We then walked around the courtyard of the temple, more carvings can be seen on the lintels. One of them depicting a group of apsaras dancing, Buddha sitting on top of the immortal demon head. There is also a wall with a group of hermits that seem to be meditating. As I walked around the temple, I can see trees growing onto the building roof with its root dangling out. The most visible one would be the wall facing a 2 storey building on the left side of the temple as one enters into the temple compound. This tree tears the building apart by stamping its roots into the temple walls. Perhaps the most significant building in this temple is not the main temple building, but this building was rumoured to hold the sacred sword. It was believed that for the king to rule the country, he must have this sword in this possession. This sword was believed to be held in this 2 storey building that was located on the left side as we entered the temple site. It was also believed that when the King then gave the temple to his father, together with it, the sacred sword for his father to safe keep for him. However, when invaders came to loot this temple, the sword was not found inside. As my guide has explained, the location and the existence of this sacred sword remains a myth to date.

Entrance to Peah Khan

Wall of Preah Khan

Walking into Preah Khan

Ruins of Preah Khan

Restoration in progress

Ruins of Preah Khan

Inside Preah Khan

Ruins of Preah Khan

Sunset Over Ang Kor Wat

As we walked out of the building heading for our next destination (hang on did I say Preah Khan was our last stop??), which is to watch the sunset near Ang Kor Wat. To see this sunset event, I had to take a small walk up a hill to see it. As I walked up the hill, on the top was another temple ruins! This insignificant yet visited by many tourists daily was Phnom Bakheng temple. This temple was the first state temple at Ang Kor. This temple imitates the temple of Bakong at the Roluos group, which was the 2nd oldest temple in the history of Cambodia. This temple is around 13m high and enables visitors to see as near as Ang Kor Wat, as far as the West Baray. As the sunset was in the direction of the West Baray, I find it rather disappointing to see sunset towards this direction instead of over Ang Kor Wat, which the scenery would be nicer. Perhaps there were a lot of tourists gathering on top of this temple to watch the sunset, making the place noisy rather than serene. On top I could see what seem to be some celebrities from Japan seem to be filming some documentary program, also I can see a bunch of tourists from China setting up a makeshift table and playing cards. Geez…. they can enjoy life! I did not wait for the sun to set before heading back downhill as it would be very crowded and dark. On my way down, I passed by this area where I can see what seemed to be a daily migration of some flying insects. As I was passing through them, the bunch of aunties behind me from Hong Kong was screaming as they pass through the insects. I was thinking they are scaring the insects more than the insects scaring them. I ended my long and tiring day with a buffet dinner with the traditional Khmer dance show. I did not stay long for the show as I was pretty tired after a long day of temple visitations.